Rock Climbing in Kyushu

Most rock climbing areas in Kyushu offer bolted sport routes typically one pitch in length. For those living in Saga-ken, there are several rock climbing areas that are easily accessible. With the exception of the rainy season or dead of winter, you can climb all year. Japanese climbers are generally sociable and safety conscious. Climbing gear can be purchased at Base Camp in Saga City (west of kencho on Route 207).

Nodake

Nodake is located in Nagasaki-ken, between the city of Omura (Nagasaki-ken) and Kashima (Saga-ken). A small mountain road off Route 444 provides access. Nodake has routes ranging from 5.7 to 5.13 in difficulty. The biggest concentration of climbs is in the 5.11 range. All routes are bolted and the rock is generally of good quality.

Ryutosen

Ryutosen is located in Nagasaki-ken. It’s only a 20-minute drive from the town of Ureshino. It’s another sport climbing area with a concentration of difficult 5.11 and 5.12 climbs.

Taku High School

Taku High School has an outdoor climbing wall as well as an indoor bouldering gym. Used mostly by the school’s climbing club, the wall is, however, open to the public free of charge on Wednesday evenings. You’ll need to bring your own rope.

Azumaya

Azumaya is a small climbing area with a dozen short routes. Most of the routes are characterized by dime ledges that require precise edging and painful crimping. It’s close to anyone living in eastern Saga.

Hyugami

Hyugami is located in Fukuok-ken, near the border with Oita-ken. It’s about 25 kilometers from the town of Yame on Route 442. Hyugami has several distinct climbing areas consisting of single and multi-pitch sport routes, slabs and aid routes (fixed pro). There’s an abandoned campsite that climbers use to spend the night.

Other

There are other climbing areas in Oita-ken (Honjo, Hachimenzan), Fukuoka-ken (Hiraodai), Miyazaki-ken (Hokodake, Hiezan) and Kagoshima-ken.

Advertisements